Veggie bobotie

Weather: mild (for this time of year in Beijing)
Temp: -1 - 9
Exchange rate: RMB1 = R1,44
Days left in kitty prison: 19
Not quite the midnight train to Georgia: On the train from Hong Kong to Shanghai - May 2008.

The first South African we met in China, Elkarien, came for dinner tonight and it was a lovely evening. I guess Elkarien is in her 50s and she's doing some language work for the British Council in China. She gets to travel all around the country, which seems tres glamorous, but also a little bit lonely. She's off to SA next month for Christmas. I officially have Christmas at home envy... It's very tempting to pack my bags and come home for a month or so for some summer and sun - but it's just a fanciful idea, I would never leave poor Frikkie here to face the bleak December weather on his own. Plus the kitties are almost out of prison and I want to be around when they get out...

Trouble in the land of Canon

Weather: mild
Temp: -1 - 11
Days left in kitty prison: 20
Exchange rate: RMB1 = R1,44
From my files: Gratuitous kitty love. This was taken in August 2006, when Monkey was extremely cute and I had braces.

Ok, so I got my days mixed up. I know Jackson's birthday is on 25 November. And somehow I decided that yesterday was the 25th, which clearly it was not. Happy birthday Jackson, again. Promise to get it right next year.

I think my camera is finally giving up the ghost. Why, oh why did I get drunk at one of Julia's party and then dropped it? I love my little Canon, but it may have to go. It keeps on freezing, when I really don't want it to. Like tonight -Frikkie and I were busy making a little video clip of us singing Happy Birthday to Jackson and it froze. Bugger. So no photos until further notice. Or no new photos until further notice.

Today was a bit of an up, down, up day. I got a phone call and follow-up mail from a very nice financial services company and I got really excited about it, but then it turns out that that need a hardcore sales person, which I'm not. So, that was a bit of a downer, but then a good recruitment agency mailed to set up an appointment for next week, so something to look forward to.

I got a really funny email from our friend Andrew who is travelling South America with his GF Helen. They just spent a week in the Galapagos Islands and it sounds absolutely idyllic. I may have to start disliking him soon - the travel envy is killing me.

Shanghai - a new love affair

Weather: mild winters day
Temp: -1 - 11
Exchange rate: RMB1 = R1,53
Days left in kitty prison: 21
Look Helen, you're famous: My friend Helen is perhaps not "big in Japan", but she's pretty big in Shanghai.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY JACKSON JAMES HUMPHRY! Have an awesome day babsie - your godmother loves ya big time. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Wish I could have been there for the party.

We just spent an awesome weekend in Shanghai. For the first time we stayed on the Puxi side of the Hungpu river and it made all the difference. We usually stay in Pudong cause it's close to Frikkie's office, but the thing with Pudong is that it's a bit of a hole. Story goes that 10 years ago it was muddy farmland on the wrong side of the river, but because Shanghai was bursting at the seems it was developed into a monster of high rises, 12 lane roads, some horrific architecture and is generally aesthetically challenged. Like I said, a bit of a hole. But Puxi is where it's all happening. It's the old party of the city with character, tiny little lanes, hidden bars, hole in the wall restaurants... right up our alley.

I spent most of my Friday in the alleys of Taikang Lu. The little lanes are packed with galleries, bric-a-brac, people hanging out their washing, life happening, coffee being brewed, cocktails being shaken. Absolutely amazing and the antithesis of Beijing. In Beijing everything has been restored, cleaned up, ordered and redeveloped to within an inch of its life. That has, thank god, not happened to Shanghai - it's all still pretty organic. Which means that the streets are a little messier, you get lost more easily, but the city has a creative edge to it, that I think is missing in Beijing. Met Rachel (Aussie friend) for some drinks late afternoon before we hooked with Frikkie and Pete (Rachel's husband and Frikkie's boss) for a couple of glasses of good Australian Sauvignon Blanc at the Australian Chamber of Commerce get together on the 90th floor of a hotel. Great views and as long as you don't mention the rugby Aussies aren't that bad to hang out with :-). The whole Hassell crew headed out for dinner afterward to a place called 1930. Imagine Shanghai in it's hay day of decadence, opulence and opium - that's what 1930 was like. It's tiny, with great cocktails, music and good friends. Pretty much perfect.

We had dinner at Shanghai's most famous vegetarian restaurant on Saturday night, Godly. We literally skidded in there 5 minutes before they closed and the waitress was none to pleased to see us, but when Frikkie ordered rice in Chinese she was all smiles and we had great service after that. See, already those Mandarin lessons are paying off.

On Sunday we went to a truly beautiful Buddhist temple. Don't ask me what it was called, Rachel navigated us there, we just went along. The temple is still active, which means there are monks floating about in orange robes and the whole place had a feeling of deep serenity. We were lucky enough to observe a dedication service held by a family for their deceased parents. There is something about monks chanting brings inner calm and peace.

The late autumn downer

Weather: chilly, but warmer than yesterday
Temp: -6 ~4
Exchange rate:
RMB1 = R1.50 (I think it's stabilised)
Days left in kitty prison: 26
Textbook: An image from our Mandarin textbook.

Frikkie and I are not having the best week. He's really frustrated at the office and I'm so bored I want to platz. The economic downturn is really affecting China and the construction industry is no exception. So everybody is tightening their belts and to say that he's not having much fun at the office is a bit of an understatement. I've decided that teaching really isn't for me and that I want a proper 9-5 corporate job. I was looking at opening a flower/coffee shop, but after some further investigation decided that I don't know enough about the local environment to really make a go of it. Also, you need a local partner and since I know about 5 locals this wasn't really an option.

But it's not all bad. We're off to Shanghai for the weekend. Frikkie has to go there for a work on Thursday and I'm flying down on Friday for some R&R and slightly warmer weather.

We move into our new apartment next weekend. Lucky we don't have much to move so it should go quickly. Yeah!

Despite the cold at night we regularly hop on our (now dusty) bikes and head for our DVD shop. We don't have cable TV and it's a bit nippy to go out at night, so we're watching a lot of DVDs. The thing with the DVDs that you get from our friendly local DVD prirate is that you never quite know what you're going to get. We got a copy of Asterix and Obelix go to the Olympics (or whatever it's called in English). So we knew it's a french flick and we checked that it had English subtitles. Well, technically it did have English subtitles, but let's just say it wasn't comprehensible English. Not even close. And the movie was dubbed into Russian. So perhaps it was dubbed from French into Russian and then a Russian speaking frenchy translated it into Mandarin and then somebody typed every third word in Google Translate et voila - no comprendo Angleski.

Grade 1, Day 1

Weather: warm and balmy, no, just kidding. it's frigging freezing
Temp: -1 - 8
Days left in kitty prison: 27
Exchange rate: RMB1 = R 1.48

It was rather cold today. I'm guessing I'll be saying that a lot over the next couple of months. It is not lost on my that technically I went from winter into 3 weeks of autumn and straight back into mid-winter again. The thing is, technically it's still autumn so I can't imagine what actual winter is going to be like.

Our first Mandarin lesson was fun. I can now ask for a cold beer - clearly a very important question and thus today's lesson was very productive. We started with a Grade 1 textbook that will teach us how to read and write. And we practiced out tones: flat, up, up-down, down. Yes, it's as complicated as it sounds.

I'll post a photo next time - I'm too lazy to get out of bed to go get my camera to download some pics.

They found us or we found them

Weather: nice and chilly
Temp: 1-10
Exhange rate: RMB1 = R1,46
Days till get cats get home: 28
I have no idea what this means: I liked this red character on a rock. I know it's sideways, but that's about all.

We have met a bunch of South Africans yesterday. We went to Shunyi for coffee and breakfast at Secrets from Africa, Miranda Allan's new shop. I met Miranda through the folks at Melissa's when I enquired about being their agent in China. Miranda's been here for a couple of years and have been importing SA products such as Carol Boyes an Helen Melon. So we met a whole bunch of people over coffee. Gerju, one of the Naspers guys here, invited us along for dinner where we met some more Saffers over sushi and then about 10 more when we watched SA vs Scotland. Gerju seems to know more people than the Pope. It was very cool to hang out with people who just get you without having to explain too much.

We interviewed out Mandarin tutor today and start lessons tomorrow night. We're really excited about it. Our first text book is what Grade 1 students here use to learn how to read and write. You gotta start somewhere.

We discovered a cool bar in Sanlitun, the Rickshaw. Free pool, cold beer and great Mexican food. I suspect they will see us again. And we lazed away most of our Sunday afternoon there. Frikkie kicked my ass at pool, but I staged a comeback and eventually lost by only one game.

They're here

The convicts have arrived! The countdown has begun.
30 days to go.

Today is the big day

Weather: Sunny winters day
Temp: 3-14
Exchange rate: RMB1 = R1.48
The kids arrive today: The kitties land in Beijing in about 30 minutes. Then it will take about 3 hours to clear them through customs, then I get to see them before they head for their 30 days in quarantine. This is NuNu being cute.

I thought I had it in me to bargain, but I just don't. I went to the Toy Market yesterday to get birthday presents for my favourite godson and Frikkie's nephews. I think I got some great presents, and wasn't ripped off, but I guess I could have gotten it for 20% less if I really wanted to, but I just don't have it in my to haggle. Just like I figure it's ok to pay the bike guard RMB1 instead of the 50c she actually asked for. A local said the other day that foreigners like us set a precedent which pushes up prices for the locals. I say: whatever.

We're going to go coat shopping this weekend - Tuesday's forecast is minus 5 - 8. It's going to be bloody freezing.

One, two, three

Weather: cold with mist/smog
Temp: 1-13
Exchange: RMB1 =R1.50
Looks pretty real: Those rockets look pretty real to me - scary thing is that this 'jet' is about 600m from my school's office.

Lekker verjaar Martin! Hoop jy't 'n lekker dag met baie presente. Jou Oom Frikkie belowe hy pos een van die dae jou present, so dit gaan dalk bietjie laat wees (maar dis maar hoe ons Oom Frikkie ken, ne). xxx

Winter has truly arrived in Beijing. It's cold and the sun struggles to get through the clouds. I cycled to Carre Four yesterday and I had tears streaming down my face - it was so cold my eyes watered. And my ears! They hurt if I cycle without my beany on. And I've started wearing my gloves. In short it's not safe to leave the apartment building without at least three layers of clothing on. Thankfully the apartment stays at about 22 degrees - so nice and warm.

I can now count to ten in Chinese! I practise with the taxi drivers every time I have to catch a cab somewhere. They find it pretty funny and I get to learn something. I've started recognising phone numbers in radio ads, which is pretty useless since I have no clue what they're advertising but it's a start. It also means that I can start bargaining in Chinese. Yesterday I went to the flower market and know that I got ripped off by RMB20 cause the shop assistant asked the owner how much the lilies were and the price given was RMB60, but then when she spoke to me in English, she said it was 80. I didn't feel like arguing, or bargaining, but next time she won't be so lucky.

The kitties are being picked up from Rebecca this morning for their flight to Amsterdam tonight. They'll be staying in a kitty hotel til Thursday night when they fly to Beijing. They land at 9 on Friday morning. We are SO excited.

Nothing in particular

Weather: similar to a clear, chilly Joburg day
Temp: 0-13
Exhange rate: RMB1 = R1,47
Shrooms: I've discovered these mushrooms in the shop downstairs. They're called Snow Crab mushrooms and I bought them because they looked so beautiful. Also, great to eat when fried in butter and garlic.

I phoned my brother yesterday and chatted to the whole family. And I was doing just fine until Jessica, my youngest niece, asked if we'll be home for Christmas. I had a bit of a blub after that. And today, as if sent to torture me I saw the first signs of Christmas in Beijing. I went to the flower market close to our flat and the market people were busy unpacking all their Christmas decorations. Apparently Christmas is big in Beijing - who would have thought. I can count on my one hand the number of times I have not been home for Christmas and I'm sad that I wouldn't be there this year.

We're signing the lease for our new apartment tonight so it looks like it's all happening! Now we just have to pay 2 months' deposit tonight and 3 months' rent next month and we should be good to go - we will also be extremely broke, but at least we'll have a roof over our heads.

And I'm hoping that everything with the kitties are on track - nobody's phoned me to tell me otherwise, I'm assuming that it's all good.

It is BBBRRRR cold

Weather: COLD, with a capital C
Temp: 0-7
Exchange rate: RMB1=R1,48
Subway: Sanyuanqiao is our subway stop on Line 10.

I think I've aged considerably in the last couple of days stressing about getting our kitties to Beijing. But as it turns out it really wasn't necessary. I asked so many of my friends favours to get it all sorted and guess what - it will all be sorted by Wednesday when they fly. Rebecca, Deborah, Shani, Nolene, Evan, Geron... I cannot say how much I appreciate your help and assistance.

It is REALLY cold today and at some point I thought my ears were going to drop-off they were so cold. We've been apartment hunting since 10:30am and I'm hoping that we've found The One. Now we just hope the owner will play ball, but we're trying not to get too excited about it all, cause you never know. The problem is that our apartment is really warm and then you don't wear enough layers and it only hits you once you step outside the front door. Earmuffs, thermal underwear here we come. According to the weather forecast it's going to be even colder tomorrow - we may never leave the flat again...

Getting our cats to Beijing

Weather: rather nippy - a cold front is on its way.
Temp: 2-12
Exhange rate: RMB1 = R1.50
Walking: my first attempt at adding a short video clip to my blog. It's pretty arb, but if it works well, there will be more to follow. Let me know.

Leaving our cats in South Africa was not an easy decision, but since I didn't have a residency permit we had absolutely no choice. Rebecca has been looking after them and I'm forever in her debt - looking after our two madams, moving house, renovating your new house and digging up your garden all at the same time, with a toddler as first mate, can't be very easy, but Rebecca has been great and we owe her in a big way.

But leaving your cats with your nearest and dearest for a month or two is really easy compared to trying to sort out the logistics of actually getting them to Beijing. I've been dealing with a company called Keringa in Johannesburg who's job it is to get the cats here. It all seemed plain sailing till yesterday. Keep in mind that the cats are supposed to fly on Monday. So, yesterday they send through a mail saying that they just want to know when I'll be getting the State Vet Clearance Certificate. WTF is that? I don't know about you, but I certainly don't fly my pets around the world on a regular basis, so I assumed that they would sort out all the necessary documentation as I'm paying them a small fortune to do so. Yes, can we all say it together? Assumption is the mother of stuff ups. So, I called them; shouted a lot, but to no avail. They assumed that I would get the state vet certificate. But of course - let me just fly to SA to drive to Germiston to do that. ARGH! ARGH! ARGH! They say it's a misunderstanding - I say it's sheer incompetence. But all is not lost - I've asked the troops at Virgin Money to help and I'm hoping that the kitties will now be here next Friday.

007...

Weather: Fine and mild
Temp: 5-19
Exchange: RMB1=R1,40
Gorgeous: The man is a god...

Just got back from seeing Quantum of Solace. Go see it. I cannot stress that enough. Unfortunately there's no beach scene, but Mr Parker is going to hyperventilate after the opening scene. I want to say more, but don't want to give it away.

Also, and I'm pretty sure everybody agrees with me here: I'm pretty pleased that Barak Obama is the new US president. I was following it all live on CNN.com and it was quite emotional. I thought Sen McCain's speech admitting defeat was extremely gracious and I'm really hoping that things will improve for average Americans.

On the local front, and almost as exciting as the American elections, I gave my first private class today. Stan Sun is an ernest fellow and I have a feeling that we'll become firm friends. I also met his Doberman, Tiger, who really liked me and knock my tea mug out of my hand and all over me, but it's all good.

The countdown to our kitties arriving in Beijing has officially started. They fly this coming Monday and I'm SO excited that I can hardly wait. I'm much less excited about the 30 days quarantine they have to go through but I've made my piece with it.

And just in case there was any doubt, the free market is alive and well and living in China. The flat we were going to live in from December has been let to somebody else. Somebody who offered the landlord RMB500 more. So, the search for a place to call home for the next 12 months continues.

Grown-up stuff

Weather: who knows - I haven't gone outside yet, looks alright though
Temp: 3-16
Exchange: RMB1 = R1.47
It is what it is: Digging Beijing

Sometimes grown-up stuff is really hard. I just cancelled a second interview with a company because I believe that it's not the right industry or company for me. Sounds easy enough right, but I don't know if/when I'll make it to a second round interview again. And although I'm pretty sure I made the right decision, I'm just not 100% sure. Also, the longer I'm out this 9-5 game the less likely I am to get back into it and does that mean my marketing career is coming to an end. And do I want it to come to an end? Like I said: grown-up stuff is rather difficult sometimes.

Last night I met with my first private client for English classes. I thought it was just going to be a "hi, how are you and when do you want to have your classes" meeting. But no. We arrived at about 8 and left at 11. We had dinner, I was given an extended introduction to Sun Xioa or Stan as he is called in English and got a history lesson thrown in for free. Then when it was all done, his driver drove me home in his massive BMW. I'm quite excited and it seems that at least some things are working out.

The forbidden city

Weather: nippy
Temp: 3-14
Exchange rate: RMB1 - R1.41
In all his glory: Chairman Moa's world famous portrait at the entrance to the Forbidden City

We finally made it to the Forbidden City this weekend. Yeah! About time I think. Pete, Rachel, Brendon and Frikkie trekked to Tiananmen East subway station relatively early on Saturday morning. The plan was to avoid the masses, but I guess for something as popular as the Forbidden City that's kind of impossible. It was just us and bus loads of other tourists, most of them Chinese.

We got ourselves a great tour guide just outside the ticket office. I can really recommend Johnson (yz2974@yahoo.com.cn) - his English is great and is rate of RMB150 for a two hour tour was worth every cent and we're probably going to contact him again when we're ready to go to the Great Wall.
I knew the Forbidden City was big, but I don't think I was quite prepared for exactly how enormous it is. We walked, and walked and spent about 5 hours there. And we didn't get to see everything. Once we did the tour with Johnson we doubled back to the western section of the city where they keep all the palace treasures. The amount of gold and precious objects is staggering. I have seldom seen so many beautiful and rare things in one exhibition. We ended our visit with the Clock and Watch exhibition. Wow - a staggering amount of antique clocks and watched unlike anything I've ever seen and worth the RMB10 entrance fee. We staggered out of there suffering from visual overload, but in a good way.

On Saturday night the Aussies came round for dinner - yes, our first dinner party. We had to use paper plates, cause we only have 2 plates, but nobody seemed to mind to much cause Frikkie made a killer green curry.

On Sunday we headed off to one of the antique shopping streets. It was a little disappointing cause it's all been renovated. Which means that it's all neat and tidy and nothing like the antique market in Shanghai, which is still a real market and a little more 'organic'. But we got to see a little more of the southern part of the city, which is definitely less affluent and less developed and we had a glimpse of what real Hutong living is like, communal toilets and all.

It's a bit of a trek to the South since we're in the North and as a reward we popped in to the Vineyard, a cafe similar to Salvation Cafe in 44 Stanley. The food was yum and I'm pretty sure we'll be spending quite a few weekend mornings there digging into their famous veggie brunch.